DAY 54 - 59
Day 54 - Norwegian weather. Sigh
I woke up to a rainy day with the worst headache. Therefore, I decided to take it easy by walking along the road. By noon I was out the door with a stomach full of oatmeal and ginger tea.
The weather was very unpredictable. Whenever I stopped to adjust my clothing, it changed. Rain. No sun. No rain.
After 8km, I could leave the main road and walk through a valley on a dirt road. It was nice and easy, but my insecurity grew with my tiredness. I was suddenly certain I had taken a wrong turn somewhere, and as I started to cry, I realized how tired I was. Learning from my earlier experiences, I decided to put up the tent instead of pushing on. Once I did, I immediately felt better.
Good girl!
Steps: 34667
Day 55 - It would be nice to do something else for a change
Tired. Of. This. Shit.
I was constantly looking at the map, checking how far I had walked and how far it was to go still. Enjoying the moment completely forgotten.
… And once upon a time, I had dry feet…
There were several cabins and emergency huts on today’s hike, and I entered all of them for a short break. To be able to get inside and take off my backpack for a little while, made a huge difference.
It wasn’t like I wanted to quit, but acknowledged that I was very tired of life on the road. To go and find water, to carry my backpack, to pack and unpack. Every single day.
UÆÆÆÆ TIRED OF IT! OK?! TIRED!
Dritt. Bæsj. Føkk.
Steps: 39859
Day 56 - Reward
My psyche today was quite the opposite from the day before. I took my time, picking both blueberries and cloudberries (a word I’ve only just learned, and I cannot think of a more describing and fitting word! It’s so cute it makes me happy) along the trail.
For the last 5 days or so, the weather the stayed the same: a light drizzle of rain, the sun lurking beneath the clouds, refusing to come out. Childish! But to be honest, that's actually perfect hiking conditions. Not too cold, not too warm, so no complaints there.
But seriously sun, show yourself!
Reindeer cooling off in the snow
17 km later, I sat in the Sauvass cabin eating my dinner while considering another 12km hike, just to reach Umbukta Fjellstue, where I knew they had showers and food. And my next box of resupply.
Why not, I had plenty of energy.
The hike went smoothly, it was an easy 3 hours descend down the mountain. Easy, except for the last muddy part. I don’t like mud much.
No available rooms and a closed café met me when I arrived at Umbukta Fjellstue, but Sølve, one of the employees there, rose to the occasion and offered me tent space inside the big party tent they had in the back. And as for the café being closed, well, that didn’t stop Sølve from serving me food. His own food, in fact. I wolfed down the huge plate of chicken and rice in record time.
“But Sølve, I cannot eat your food.”
“Aaach, eat it! I don’t like rice much anyway.”
Steps: 43212
Day 57 – Umbukta Fjellstue
At Umbukta, I met three others also hiking Norge på langs (NPL): Inger, Hans, and Bård. The latter walked south like me, only a tiny bit faster. When he told me he had spent 30 days from North Cape, the words “What in God’s name are you made of? “ blurted out of me.
I had a wonderful rest day, doing some laundry and relaxing in the café. Inger and Hans went into town to do a bit of shopping, and when they came back, we ate dinner together. Afterward, I went into my Inception tent and watched the movie “Storks” on Netflix.
I haven’t enjoyed myself that much in a long time. Laying in my sleeping bag, watching a movie, listening to the rain hammering on the tent with a stomach full of meat, ice cream, and (free) waffles.
Steps: 2832
Day 58 - Unexpected beauty
After a lengthy breakfast and a waffle, a goodbye-present from Sølve, I continued my journey south. Inger walked me to the trail and I headed off feeling lighthearted.
The owner, Thor Inge, offers a free night for anyone hiking NPL. Having completed the trail twice himself, he knows what it entails and what it means to receive such an offer. Thank you!
I was prepared for a difficult day, a monstrous climb up the mountain through devious terrain. I kept waiting for the monstrosity I was promised, but it never came. What I did meet, was a beauty I find hard to describe.
Wild, running rivers crept over moss-covered stones like serpents. The warm light from the evening sun reflected in the icy blue glacier in the far distance of the snow-covered mountains. I was filled with wonder and the beauty became my fuel.
I put up my tent at the foot of the mountain while the sun was setting.
Magic.
Steps: 36282
Day 59 - Energy or no energy, that's the question
All the energy from the previous day evaporated within the first hour of walking. I felt so empty while slipping through mud and mashes. After a good meal in the first cabin I arrived at, only 6 km from where I started, both my mood and the weather lightened considerably. With the impressive Okstind mountains to my right and the promise of a bed somewhere in front of me, I continued through the never-ending, wet landscape.
To exit the forest and reach the gravel road, was a huge relief. The farm I was heading for, Steikvasselv, offered a ride back and forth to the trail, so I got a ride 2 km up the road before I could throw off Mr. Skywalker, take a long, warm shower, and go to bed. Hallelujah!
Cloudberries for breakfast, mmmm!
Steps: 39347
